China - the second time

September 6
126 km time 7:00, climb 570m, peak 5231 m trip highest pass
9685 km to date
80 km from Tuotuo, China 4775m
Snow surrounds at equal elevations, 4 C. "Road....notsogood" as workers in masks cover potholes.
Lunch Wenquan, halfway to Golmud.

September 7
134 km time 6:30, climb 450m
9819 km to date
88 km past Tuotuo, China 4650m
Rainy morning, big tailwind 29 kph then rest at ruined foundation. Tuotuo-men play outdoor pool tables.
Shelter from rain with mom and son in nomad tent.

cooking
Doug cooking with our MSR XGKII stoves near Jinta, China. Those stoves were loud, but they kicked thermal butt. No problems with them, period.

September 8
106 km time 6:30, climb 1000m
9925 km to date
Wuodaoliang, China 4650m
Shiver down morning tea. Pass truck with spilled beer. Temp plummets, l seek shelter in "monestary", settle for Tibetan family restaurant

September 9 125 km time 7:30, climb 620m 10,050 km to date 10 km beyond end of Tibetan plateau pass 4500m Wake to 1Ocm snow. Town of Qumar Heyan is missing. Fade in afternoon. Cleat pulls out of my shoe

horse

September 10
151 km time 6:40, climb 380m
10,201 km to date
Golmud, China 3000m
Thought we had only 90 km today, maps fucked. Army guys say 90 more after 60 already. Japanese guy heading up, no clothing. Leave Tibet behind. Haul to town

September 12
140 km time 7:20, climb 700m,
10,341 km to date
after Golmud salt flats 3370m
I fight three Chinese guys for my laundry after "banana pancak" at "The Big Yar" restaurant. Pass "Fairest Salt Flat Bridge" into desert, lattice windbreaks.

dromedary
Native kids helping carry one of our MSR dromedary bags near Golmud. They were rugged - the kids and the dromedaries.

September 13
130 km time 6:30, climb 510m
10,471 km to date
after Ige He river, China 3345m
At 55km looking for lunch in Da Qaidam Zhen, chef stuffs us with salty, greasy spinach. Dry, Turkmen style mountain. Last of the snowy peaks. Lunch on bridge

September 14
115 km time 7:10, climb 680m
10,586 km to date
Suhai Hu Valley, China 3020m
First of Autumn mornings 4 C. Roller coaster for 35 km then huge valley. Jianlibao at 80 km at lonely outpost. Road to shit, headwinds pound, trucks choke with dust.

great
The Great Wall isn't so great here. And those are "Great Wall" brand cigarettes.

September 15
160 km time 8:00, climb 975m
10,746 km to date
Dunhuong, China 1350m
Moming climb up last mtn range. Guys pound truck wheel rim at top, arm numbing descent. Rocket to town, too fast, last spare tire. Bonked, can't eat. 7 yuan hotel.

September 16
184 km time 7:22, climb 360m
10,930 km to date
75 km past Anxi, China 1500m
Map is wrong: 82 km becomes 117. Tailwinds bless. Sweet potatos and restaurant meal with drunk official tries to steal our apples. Ghost town water fill, Al dusk flat.

yak

September 17
127 km time 6:10, climb 450m
11,057 km to date
before Jiayuguan, China 1750m
Yumenzhen lunch and a new peach drink. Sign hurts: 125 km to Jiayuguanl Road turns south and winds from side. Camp behind sand dune. Tired, sleep hard

September 18
88 km time 4:30, climb 600m
11,145 km to date
Jiayuguan, China 1600m
Leisure ride to lunch view of industrial town of Yumen, muddy fragments of possible Great Wall. Road crews wear surgical masks. Overweight lorries.

September 20
114 km time 5:45, climb 150m
11,259 km to date
37 km past Jinta, China 1430m
Lunch in market of big noodle bown. Big glasses. Leave agricultural fields and camp behind sand dunes on south edge of Gobi.

September 21
79 km time 4:30
11,338 km to date
back in Jinta, China under arrest
Pass "copper mine" and road deteriorates to unridable sand. Rest eating banana chips when tinted Honda approaches. The rest is history.
Jeep and coal truck from arrest point to Jinta (3 yuan)
Bus from Jinta to Jiayuguan (driver wants 100 yuan)
Bus Jiayuguan to Landzhou. 17 hours of hell
Bus from Landzhou to airport, stay with Daniel, jet engineer, watch African Queen
Airplane Landzhou to Beijing
Taxi Jinghua hotel to Beijing train station (checking baggage a 1/2 day affair,
Us, "I have found the end of my patience."
Trian Beijing to Zamen Ude, stay in home of Zanhoo
Chinese student helps
Jeep Zamen Ude to Seinsand, driven by Eggie, "hey mans! That's fuckin great! Jeep Seinsand to Dalanzadagad, sparking dashboard and Choco Pies.

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