158 km time 9:00, climb 1035m
6426 km to date
Morning crossing we awaken Chinese border guards from trailer. Helicopter circles and lands on Pakistan side. Temperature plummet and rain pours. Cold descent.
Kunjarab Pass on the Karkoram Hiway. The Karkoram Hiway goes for 1000 miles from Kashgar to Islamabad. Bell helicopters was testing their high-altitude models here, at 16,000 feet.
6484 km to date, climb 1655m
Monsoon destroys road. Portage bikes and call it an early day. Haider Beg and the Swiss Bible thumper family.
We saw a Japanese tourist washed 100 yards downstream, emerging wet, sandy, and bloody.
Alex had to walk his bike 15k into Gilget to find this welder after his frame broke.
107 km time 6:38, climb 850m
6591 km to date
Al breaks a chain. Tourist cottage and Ohio guy Doug tells great stories. Discover mango shakes in chaotic Gilgit.
Truck drivers were into self-expression.
138 km time 7:24, climb 1200m
6729 km to date
Starting to wear out. Tires blow out at the sidewall. Long uphill climb to hotel on hillside. First day we start taking Malaria medication.
An innkeeper on the Hiway.
131 km, climb 1000m
6860 km to date
Dehydration! No energy today. Weakening. Kids block road into down "one pen! One pen!" I blast through and level one child. Keep on riding, no looking back.
105 km time 6:50, climb 1225m
6965 km to date
No sleep last night, vivid Larium dreams. Trucks with permanent horns. Yoda blocks the stairway to street. Extended lunch Iying drinking Coke on rope beds.
Dried apricots for sale.
Vehicles waited for weeks to get through.
7015 km to date
5 Km out of Takot landslide blocks road. Pay kids 50 Rs. to carry luggage. I bonk. Alex rides ahead from Battagram while I hitch with Ahzar, the zealous Muslim.
Islamabad, the end of the Hiway. Horns blaring, raw sewage in the street, no emmissions control, 95 degrees F.