Pakistan

July 24
158 km time 9:00, climb 1035m
6426 km to date
Passu, Pakistan
Morning crossing we awaken Chinese border guards from trailer. Helicopter circles and lands on Pakistan side. Temperature plummet and rain pours. Cold descent.

Kunjarab
Kunjarab Pass on the Karkoram Hiway. The Karkoram Hiway goes for 1000 miles from Kashgar to Islamabad. Bell helicopters was testing their high-altitude models here, at 16,000 feet.

July 25
58 km
6484 km to date, climb 1655m
Hunza, Pakistan
Monsoon destroys road. Portage bikes and call it an early day. Haider Beg and the Swiss Bible thumper family.

flood
We saw a Japanese tourist washed 100 yards downstream, emerging wet, sandy, and bloody.
welder
Alex had to walk his bike 15k into Gilget to find this welder after his frame broke.
July 26
107 km time 6:38, climb 850m
6591 km to date
Gilgit, Pakistan
Al breaks a chain. Tourist cottage and Ohio guy Doug tells great stories. Discover mango shakes in chaotic Gilgit.

truck
Truck drivers were into self-expression.

July 28
138 km time 7:24, climb 1200m
6729 km to date
Chilas, Pakistan
Starting to wear out. Tires blow out at the sidewall. Long uphill climb to hotel on hillside. First day we start taking Malaria medication.

pass
An innkeeper on the Hiway.

July 29
131 km, climb 1000m
6860 km to date
Dasu, Pakistan
Dehydration! No energy today. Weakening. Kids block road into down "one pen! One pen!" I blast through and level one child. Keep on riding, no looking back.

valley

July 30
105 km time 6:50, climb 1225m
6965 km to date
Takot, Pakistan
No sleep last night, vivid Larium dreams. Trucks with permanent horns. Yoda blocks the stairway to street. Extended lunch Iying drinking Coke on rope beds.

apricots
Dried apricots for sale.
landslide
Vehicles waited for weeks to get through.

July 31
50 km
7015 km to date
Abbotabad, Pakistan
5 Km out of Takot landslide blocks road. Pay kids 50 Rs. to carry luggage. I bonk. Alex rides ahead from Battagram while I hitch with Ahzar, the zealous Muslim.

Islamabad
Islamabad, the end of the Hiway. Horns blaring, raw sewage in the street, no emmissions control, 95 degrees F.

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