Snow surrounds at equal elevations, 4 C. “Road….notsogood” as workers in masks cover potholes. Lunch Wenquan, halfway to Golmud.

Rainy morning, big tailwind 29 kph then rest at ruined foundation. Tuotuo-men play outdoor pool tables. Shelter from rain with mom and son in nomad tent.

XGKII stoves near Jinta, China. Those stoves were loud, but they kicked thermal butt. No problems with them, period.

Shiver down morning tea. Pass truck with spilled beer. Temp plummets, l seek shelter in “monestary”, settle for Tibetan family restaurant

Wake to 1Ocm snow. Town of Qumar Heyan is missing. Fade in afternoon. Cleat pulls out of my shoe

Thought we had only 90 km today, maps fucked. Army guys say 90 more after 60 already. Japanese guy heading up, no clothing. Leave Tibet behind. Haul to town

I fight three Chinese guys for my laundry after “banana pancak” at “The Big Yar” restaurant. Pass “Fairest Salt Flat Bridge” into desert, lattice windbreaks.

At 55km looking for lunch in Da Qaidam Zhen, chef stuffs us with salty, greasy spinach. Dry, Turkmen style mountain. Last of the snowy peaks. Lunch on bridge

First of Autumn mornings 4 C. Roller coaster for 35 km then huge valley. Jianlibao at 80 km at lonely outpost. Road to shit, headwinds pound, trucks choke with dust.

Moming climb up last mtn range. Guys pound truck wheel rim at top, arm numbing descent. Rocket to town, too fast, last spare tire. Bonked, can’t eat. 7 yuan hotel.

Map is wrong: 82 km becomes 117. Tailwinds bless. Sweet potatos and restaurant meal with drunk official tries to steal our apples. Ghost town water fill, Al dusk flat.

Yumenzhen lunch and a new peach drink. Sign hurts: 125 km to Jiayuguanl Road turns south and winds from side. Camp behind sand dune. Tired, sleep hard

Leisure ride to lunch view of industrial town of Yumen, muddy fragments of possible Great Wall. Road crews wear surgical masks. Overweight lorries.

Lunch in market of big noodle bown. Big glasses. Leave agricultural fields and camp behind sand dunes on south edge of Gobi.

Pass “copper mine” and road deteriorates to unridable sand. Rest eating banana chips when tinted Honda approaches. The rest is history. Jeep and coal truck from arrest point to Jinta (3 yuan) Bus from Jinta to Jiayuguan (driver wants 100 yuan) Bus Jiayuguan to Landzhou. 17 hours of hell Bus from Landzhou to airport, stay with Daniel, Airplane Landzhou to Beijing Taxi Jinghua hotel to Beijing train station (checking baggage a 1/2 day affair, Us, “I have found the end of my patience.” Chinese student helps Jeep Zamen Ude to Seinsand, driven by Eggie, “hey mans! That’s fuckin great! Jeep Seinsand to Dalanzadagad, sparking dashboard and Choco Pies.