August 22 to 23
beyond Nyalam, Tibet (4400m)
60 km
8477 km total
Impossible to describe the most fucked up two days of the entire trip. Still can’t believe we pulled this one off.
Mountains of Tibet.
August 24
before Tingri, Tibet (4600m)
89 km
8566 km total
A single gear day. Head pounds at 25 km. Paranoid, we head south when we see army jeeps approaching. Meet the Bonn to Beijing jeep team for the first time
One tough Tibetian kid. He wore an earring and a bullwhip.
August 25
5 km beyond Tingri, Tibet (4520m)
109 km
8675 km total
Checkpoints no problem, guards curious about dental floss. In Tingri fat cat tourists eat at expensive restaurant while we eat cheap, with the workers
Roadcrew.
August 26
Lhatze, Tibet (4240m)
85 km
8760 km total
Morning slog through 50 m mudhole. Meet Swiss couple on road for 2 years then climb hard to 5221m - highest point of the trip. Meet Hiro in Lhatze.
Don't know what to say about this one.
August 27
35 km from Shigake, Tibet (4200m)
118 km
8878 km total
Hiro bonks early, seems afraid of me after I throw a shovel at a kid who grabs my bike. Camp with German tour group. I’m exhausted, l lose the shortwave.
Snow on the Tibetian plains. Low 20's F.
August 28
Gyantse, Tibet
130 km
9008 km total
Part with Alex in Shigake, wanting to take the old road to Gyantse. Rough road, rain pours. Roads flood, rising past axle level. Gyantse “Carpet Makers Resthouse”
Horseriding skills parade.
September 1
down the road from Lhasa, Tibet (4170m)
61 km
9069 km total
Late start after lunch at Tashi. Bloated, slow and hurting. Horse festival Camp at small village where “pull my finger” joke entertains onlooking children
Outside Lahsa.
Sad horse.
September 2
20 km beyond Damxeung, Tibet (4520m)
122 km
9191 km total
Watch military prepare for visit from important guy in small village. Look for truck ride to Namco Lake. Camp oh hilltop next to prayer flags.
September 3
40 km from Nakchu (4800m)
121 km
Up and down through river valleys and across parallel mountain ranges. One theater replaces another. Convoys pass constantly, “OKI OKI”
September 4
60 km from Amdo, Tibet (4835m)
130 km
9442 km total
Nakchu horse festival, Tibetans chase us through tent city. Meet southbound Japanese cyclist. Big sky, cool nights, we eat in tent bundled up.
Some of the dirtiest kids in the world. There was no food in this town.
September 5
45, climb 1270m
9559 km total
117 km time 6:
Descend 250m in 6km to Amdo, ugly riverbed town. At rest stop guy pulls large knife on me. Shelter in work camp as hail pelts our bikes.
