Impossible to describe the most fucked up two days of the entire trip. Still can’t believe we pulled this one off.

See Aug 22

A single gear day. Head pounds at 25 km. Paranoid, we head south when we see army jeeps approaching. Meet the Bonn to Beijing jeep team for the first time

Checkpoints no problem, guards curious about dental floss. In Tingri fat cat tourists eat at expensive restaurant while we eat cheap, with the workers

Morning slog through 50 m mudhole. Meet Swiss couple on road for 2 years then climb hard to 5221m - highest point of the trip. Meet Hiro in Lhatze.

Hiro bonks early, seems afraid of me after I throw a shovel at a kid who grabs my bike. Camp with German tour group. I’m exhausted, l lose the shortwave.

Part with Alex in Shigake, wanting to take the old road to Gyantse. Rough road, rain pours. Roads flood, rising past axle level. Gyantse “Carpet Makers Resthouse”

Today was an uneventful, though very uncomfortable, ride into Lhasa with the Euros. The driver did kill a yak with the truck. I felt the thud, the bump, and looked back to see a wailing woman running towards a yak lying in our tracks. Our driver didn’t even stop to say sorry.

I find Alex outside our appointed meeting place. I have beat him into town by a couple of hours and checked us in. We’re both happy to see each other. I’m sure we both vowed to not split up again.

Late start after lunch at Tashi. Bloated, slow and hurting. Horse festival Camp at small village where “pull my finger” joke entertains onlooking children

Watch military prepare for visit from important guy in small village. Look for truck ride to Namco Lake. Camp oh hilltop next to prayer flags.

Up and down through river valleys and across parallel mountain ranges. One theater replaces another. Convoys pass constantly, “OKI OKI”

Nakchu horse festival, Tibetans chase us through tent city. Meet southbound Japanese cyclist. Big sky, cool nights, we eat in tent bundled up.

Descend 250m in 6km to Amdo, ugly riverbed town. At rest stop guy pulls large knife on me. Shelter in work camp as hail pelts our bikes.